Meet the Fosses*

*Foss = waterfall. As I'm sure the legions of Icelanders reading this blog will say, "Fosses" is NOT the plural of foss. I was going for a (hopefully) clever reference to a Ben Stiller movie which I have not actually seen.

(Photo: Gullfoss, Iceland). Walking behind the Niagara Falls was a truly unique and unforgettable experience. It makes one appreciate how powerful the falls are, since this is as up-close-and-personal as you can ever get. Donning that flimsy yellow poncho and trying not to cringe at the thought of 8,529 people who had previously worn my rented shoes, I said to myself, "THIS made the 8-hour drive truly worthwhile".
Heck, getting spitzed by the water (don't get those cameras wet!) was so much fun that we decided to go around twice - I'm sure the group photos are on someone's hard drive somewhere, since that was over a decade ago and I've lost touch with everyone.

Don't shed any tears though. The Niagara Falls were probably the first ones I ever saw, and attracted by their beauty (especially the horseshoe-shaped one on the Canada side) and the force of the cascades threatening to obliterate anything in its path made me seek out waterfalls on trips since then. Let's see - memorable ones include those along the Route of the Waterfalls in Banos (Ecuador), Los Chorros in Juayua (El Salvador) with its bathing pool (pictured), and the puny ones on the Loboc River in Bohol (Philippines). While none of these were as gigantic and powerful as Niagara, it's quite interesting to see the different shapes and sizes they come in.

Gullfoss is perhaps Iceland's most famous waterfall, owing to it being part of the famous Golden Circle. Every tourist in Iceland at some point must have visited Gullfoss. These falls aren't that tall (only 32 meters), but the split-level shape (or double cascade) is quite unique. The water then plunges into a narrow crevice that is at a right angle to the flow of the water. I find it extremely beautiful covered in snow.



Gullfoss Youtube video


This one below, Oxararfoss, is inside another famous historical attraction, the Thingvellir National Park, more known for being the site of the world's first-ever parliament (outdoors, to boot!!). If you're wondering how they coped with the cold weather, I am too. Oxararfoss empties out into - hold your breath - the Drekkingarhylur (these Icelandic names are simply unpronounceable!), aka "Drowning pool". That was how capital punishment was meted out in the old days. Guilty people were put in sacks and drowned in Drekk. Isn't Oxararfoss lovely frozen over? (shivering)



Oxararfoss Youtube video


Now we come to the one which was the most fun, Skogafoss. This waterfall (62 meters tall, 25 meters wide) topples over a cliff with great force producing lots of mist. It's relatively simple to walk all the way up to the foot of the falls to feel the intensity. However, unluckily enough the path has frozen over, so it's akin to walking on a carpet made of ice cubes. Despite the obvious danger involved, I continued walking towards Skogafoss, focusing simultaneously on shooting the video and trying not to fall on my butt. (The length bloggers go to for their audience's pleasure). Notice the guy in the video walking in my direction. Initially he appears headless but then emerges whole. Initially I thought that was due to the mist, but more likely a smudge in the camera lens. Nevertheless, got a big kick out of that one (as I normally do).



Skogafoss Youtube video

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Hi, I'm Vatnsleysufoss...please call me Faxi

Quite a number of tour operators in Reykjavik offer the day-long excursion to the "Golden Circle" (the Icelandic tourist board's brilliant marketing term) - the trifecta of south Iceland's most popular historical sights consisting of the Geysir (hot water shooting up into the air), Gullfoss (thundering two-level waterfalls), and Thingvellir national park (site of the world's first-ever parliament, outdoors to boot).

So, for the traveller spending only a few days in Iceland, this tour is one of the must-dos. The only decision really is which mode of transport to take. The biggest company, Reykjavik Excursions, operates huge tourist buses that accommodate about fifty people, while a host of smaller companies like Go Travel Iceland use more intimate mini-buses that can seat roughly twenty or so. Thus, it was a no-brainer for R. and I - we decided to book the Go Travel Iceland tour for the next day. Our driver/guide was Gummi, an affable man full of information about Iceland, its history, and sights - all told with dry humor that kept it fun for the passengers.

Since these three main attractions are located relatively not far from Iceland's capital Reykjavik, and somewhat close to each other, it makes you wonder why the bus tours take 8 hours. If you bother to read the trip itinerary, buried in the fine print (if mentioned at all) are other stops along the way including the Kerið volcano crater (pretty cool, pun intended), Hveragerði greenhouse village (residents live above the hot springs, risking total destruction of their homes), Skálholt church (fascinating mosaic tile image of Christ, as pictured), and the Nesjavellir geothermal power plant (nice - if staring at heavy machinery turns you on).

For me though, the biggest pleasant surprise among all these "extras" was the Vantnsleysufoss (or Faxi, a widely-used name for horses), one of the lesser-known waterfalls even among Icelanders, as Gummi pointed out. (True enough, no mention of Vatnsleysufoss in either Lonely Planet or Rough Guides). Located just seconds off the main road, people drive past it all the time - oblivious to Faxi's beauty. Their loss, I say.

Note: Be sure not to miss the guy who climbed to the left hand side of the waterfalls (in the first few seconds).


Watch the Youtube video

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