Hard-luck Hungarians brew some lemonade

Perched atop Gellert Hill in Budapest is the Liberty Statue, a bronzed figure of a woman holding a palm leaf with both hands. While this fetching image might seem to be a heart-warming symbol of freedom to the casual visitor, the reality is quite different. 

Initially, it was constructed in 1947 to commemorate the liberation of Hungary from the Fascist Nazi regime by the Soviets in WWII. However, that was before they realized that their "rescuers" had no intentions of leaving anytime soon, and that they had to endure the Communist ideology that the new bosses imposed. Ah, the sad reality of being a perennial loser in armed conflicts. ("In the next war, make sure we're not on your side", a walking tour guide sarcastically commented, only half-jokingly).

There is a happy ending to this tale though. In 1991, the last Soviet troops left Hungary, bringing with it not only independence, a painful transition to a capitalist economy, but also a unique dilemma. What should be done to the countless Communist-era statues (including Lady Liberty) that towered over public squares and parks, their Big Brother-like presence a constant reminder of oppression?

The initial overwhelming sentiment was to destroy all these statues, as a means to erase the bad memories. But then someone argued, these statues are part of history, and wouldn't it be fun to put them all side-by-side in one place, as a reminder of the dark past? (And perhaps make some money off curious tourists). 

This idea gained currency, and thus was born Memento Park (or Statue Park), situated about an hour's ride outside Budapest. The park operates a bus service that leaves from Deak Ferenc at 11am everyday, with optional guided tour which is well worth the extra cost.

The statues at Memento Park did evoke a sense of awe in me, both for their sheer size and notoriety of the people they depict. Although it was certainly no picnic under Communist rule, nowadays the locals feel free to laugh at the symbols that used to torment them. 

The one to the left is officially the Republic of Councils monument. When first placed in City Park, its immense back side did not make it popular with families enjoying their Sunday afternoons. 

However, here inside Statue Park, this is the most photographed monument, and has been nicknamed The Coatroom Attendant. With some imagination and from a certain angle, the gargantuan statue looks like a man running after someone, yelling "You forgot your scarf, sir!!". 

Consider another memento that won't evoke any nostalgia -  the so-called "people's car" , the Trabant. Owning one required a down payment of one-half of the sticker price, then twiddling your thumbs for 6 to 8 years before taking delivery. No word if choosing a specific color resulted in a longer delay. 

Now the Trabant, with its mediocre performance and smoky engine, is considered a symbol of the failures of centralized planning. A popular joke goes like this:

"How do you double the value of a Trabant?"
"Easy, fill up the tank with gas".

How about our friend Lady Liberty? Why was she left on top of Gellert Hill and not made to suffer the same ignominious fate as her peers?

Perhaps the Hungarians thought it fitting to have an eye-catching symbol of freedom visible to everyone, so the inscription on the plaque was simply changed to something more apt.

It now reads, "To the memory of all of those who sacrificed their lives for the independence, freedom, and success of Hungary."

Amen to that, and to the further expansion of Memento Park. While the past can never be erased, it's time to adopt a capitalist mindset and pack in the crowds who are eager to gawk at the Communist era's relics - for a price.