Loading up on the OJ

Part 5 Colors of Morocco
One thing I didn't find mention of in any guidebook is the HUGE business of growing and selling oranges in Morocco. It seemed that everywhere there were roadside stands selling a glass of orange juice for roughly 5 or 6 dirhams ( $1 = 9DH), with the oranges being squeezed by this mechanical contraption in front of you. Fresh off the farm, so to speak. On one occasion, having been quoted the outrageous sum of 10 dirhams, despite my initial misgivings I went ahead and paid for the glass of OJ and gulped down my drink. Upon learning of this, John had a chat with the proprietor and warned him of the dire consequences of his actions ("No more tour groups, mate!"), thus I was handed back a 5 dirham coin which I promptly blew on a second glass.

Wandering around at Djemaa el Fna, the intense competition among the numerous orange juice stand vendors is readily apparent. For one thing, their stands were virtually identical, were placed right next to each other, and there was no obvious product and price differentiation, thus they relied on their guile to gain your custom. A casual glance in their direction would elicit a stream of entreaties to approach and have a glass. In case one did fancy quenching one's thirst, taking a few steps towards any stand would result in cries from all directions begging you to approach their stand. Yes, you've died and gone to orange juice heaven.

Finally wilting under the hot sun, I approached a vendor's stand at random and ordered a glass of freshly squeezed orange juice. "4 dirhams", he barked. A bit lower than what I was accustomed to paying, but this being Morocco no transaction is completed without some semblance of bargaining, thus I haggled down to 3 dirhams which he accepted somewhat grudgingly. I stood there for a few minutes, savoring my drink while watching the madness and chaos of Djemaa el Fna all around. Then it occurred to me to take a photo of the vendor's stand. Knowing fully well how the Moroccan people dislike being photographed and the need for some monetary inducement, I offered him a dirham and gestured towards my camera. He agreed, and I took the picture you see above (look at that frown!). Afterwards, much to my surprise, he filled up one-third of a glass of OJ and handed it over to me, at the same time putting him palm on his heart to indicate that it was a gift. A cynical traveller I admit to being, yet this gesture was quite touching.