To the Cat Cave in Siauliai

If you're still not convinced of Siauliai's awesomeness after a trip to the Hill of Crosses (see previous post), then why not take a peek inside one of the other off-beat attractions around town, such as the Bicycle Museum, the Radio and Television Museum, and most interestingly, the Museum of Cats. 

Not being a cat owner nor fond of felines, excluding Catwoman in her shiny skin-tight suit (meow!),  I wasn't particularly interested in the Museum of Cats but it seemed too good to pass up, even just for bragging rights. (How many of your friends have set foot inside a cat museum?). 

Once again, the tourist office staff in Siauliai proved invaluable in giving directions, though they were a bit vague ("somewhere around here") when circling the area on the map to indicate the museum's location. No wonder, since it was outside Siauliai's city center and thus just off the edge of the map. 

Not to be deterred, I walked in the general direction of the museum, and came across a lake. Lo and behold, a large scale figure (about 4 stories high) of a cat stood guard over the lake, just enticing passers-by to snap a photo. I wondered what sort of affection Lithuanians had with
felines and why, and continued on my way. 

Eventually landed in a residential section of town and having neglected to bring the museum's address, I walked around aimlessly and was on the verge of giving up, when I spotted this sign."Psst...that way", it indicated to this tired and hapless traveler almost undone by his curiosity.

Re-energized, I retraced my steps, and found what might look like a museum (or a schoolhouse), and entered the gate. Eureka, I'd found it! The museum's well-hidden sign (top photo) was a dead giveaway, though the place looked deserted. I climbed up a flight of stairs, opened a door and stepped into a hallway where I could hear children's voices. Those turned out to be the museum's only other guests aside from myself - a gaggle of fifteen to twenty kids on a field trip. 

After paying the 5 litas admission fee, I stepped Inside the first of the museum's three separate rooms to find memorabilia of every kind related to cats. Tons and tons of porcelain stuff, framed photographs and paintings hugging the walls, poems and letters from all over the world, etc. Several photos of whom I assume to be the museum's founder and her beloved pets were also present. 

After spending roughly half an hour looking around and taking photos, I got tired of it. (Again, not much of a cat lover). The museum's only live cat followed me around (the group of school kids had somehow vanished), casting a baleful gaze as she did, so I took that as my cue to make an exit.

O Ye Lithuanians of Strong Faith

Siauliai doesn't ring a bell for most travelers, but I was determined to stop for one night there to see the Hill of Crosses. The what? The Hill of Crosses, situated about 10km north of the city, which as its name implies, is a staggering collection of crosses of all shapes and sizes planted on a hill (more like a mound). 

Estimates put the number of crosses at hundreds of thousands, but new ones keep getting added all the time by pilgrims, relatives of deceased loved ones, and even newlyweds. I saw a few that were planted just weeks before my visit. 

I wasn't quite sure why I wanted to visit the Hill of Crosses in the first place, probably curiosity at what it looks like. At first I was afraid that it was a tacky stop on the well-worn tourist circuit, but mentioning Siauliai or the Hill to fellow visitors in Vilnius drew mostly blank stares. Second, I thought it might be a bit eerie or scary to be amidst all those crosses, but i reminded myself this wasn't a cemetery but rather a religious site. Besides, there was only one way to find out. 

The helpful staff at the tourist office in Siauliai arranged a cab to take me back and forth to the Hill of Crosses, including an hour's stop, for 70 litas ($25). Being late afternoon, there weren't many other visitors around, but at least I felt less afraid. Small or large, wooden or metallic, plain or ornamental - crosses were everywhere.

Hundreds of small crosses dangled from the feet of a statue, or framed an angel's face. Walking paths take you around and behind each cluster to better appreciate them. Overall, it was a solemn place and an astounding sight, perhaps even inspiring to people more inclined to religion. 

Inscribed on a plaque are these words from Pope John Paul the Second: "Thank you Lithuanians, for this Hill of Crosses which testifies to the nations of Europe and to the whole world the faith of the people of this land". Amen to that. 

PRACTICAL INFO

If you do visit Siauliai, here is a helpful link on how to get to the Hill of Crosses by public transportation, as well as the bus timetable for moving on to Riga. 

Cheap beds are available at the city's sole youth hostel, located on the ground floor of a university building. Kitchen and bathroom facilities are well-maintained, though it is somewhat quiet.