One Cheapskate's Favorite Free Attractions in Seattle

Pondering the sweeping view from the Space Needle. Cruising Seattle's harbor and Lake Union. Poking a star fish at the Seattle Aquarium, albeit gently and with only one finger. Just some of the fun stuff in Seattle that we did and paid an admission fee to enjoy.

Looking back at the 4 days we spent in the Emerald City, here are some FREE attractions in Seattle that I equally enjoyed, and not just because of their non-existent price tag.

Waterfall Garden Park in Pioneer Square

The Seattle Post-Intelligencer puts it best, "The landscaped oasis features a 22-foot waterfall that cascades over granite boulders into a beautiful Japanese pool. The corner park can refresh the weariest of city souls". I didn't care for much of the neighborhood (well, except for Zeitgeist Coffee), but the waterfalls were a pleasant surprise.

Also, something to file away in your brain for the next trivia night: The waterfall park is dedicated to employees of United Parcel Service (aka Brown), which was started on this site.

Garden Memorial Park @ Pioneer Square

Seattle Public Library by Rem Koolhaas

The Central Library building does look strange at first glance, but I soon grew to love the oddly-angled sharp edges, diagonal steel beams and glass exterior. I wish all libraries looked as amazing as this building. There's more to love inside - yes, there's musty shelves groaning with thick volumes, but also tons of computers and power outlets if you bring your own.

Central library in Seattle

Tired from all that sightseeing and weary of  the constant drizzle, I plopped down into a chair and spent a couple of hours reading magazines, the Journal, checking email on my phone (blazing fast free wi-fi), and observing everyone else around me doing the same. Plus, the bright neon green escalator handrails make this library quite a "cool house".

View from the 10th floor

Olympic Sculpture Park


I saved the best for last. Ever since I saw Serena Williams' "twin" at the Hakone Open Air Museum in Japan, outdoor sculpture parks have fascinated me. So, when I heard about the newish Olympic Sculpture Park by the Seattle waterfront, I insisted on walking down to the industrial site turned Seattle Art Museum outpost one early morning.

There are a number of installations, both permanent and temporary, spread throughout the 9-acre park, but I particularly liked the offbeat ones pictured below.

The first one is called "Typewriter Eraser, Scale X". Initially it appeared to be a pizza slicer, but then I realized I was looking at it upside down - after I refocused the bristles containing Liquid Paper correction fluid that are carefully applied to an errant letter became quite obvious. A remnant of a bygone era.

Typewriter Eraser, Scale X

The second one, "Love and Loss", is a bit harder to visualize (took me a few minutes to "get" it), so four pictures are necessary to do so. Going clockwise: (top left), note the white-colored outlines on the benches that spell out "l-o-v-e"; (top right), the letter "e" on the table top, which is hard to see in the previous pic; (bottom left), the retro red neon sign of a big ampersand, and (bottom right), the white-colored outlines spelling "l-o-s-s".  Quite nifty, really.

Hopefully each visitor to Seattle enjoys these free destinations as much as I did. Lastly, grab those coupon books at your hotel to shave a few bucks off sightseeing costs. Even availed of a "buy 1, get 1 free admission" deal at the Seattle Aquarium, which explains the star fish poking.

Click here for more posts from Seattle.

A Funny Thing happened on the Gourmet Seattle Tour

After yesterday's mild weather, today's howling winds that knocked over newspaper bins and made pedestrians clutch their coats tighter made me think, "Ah, so this is what Seattle's weather is really like."  My fellow participants and myself on the Gourmet Seattle Tour were not to be deterred by such trifling things as rain, wind, and if present, snow, and pressed on with the tough task of sampling some of Seattle's best food on our 3-hour downtown gastronomic adventure.

One of the stops was Serious Pie, a renowned pizzeria owned by the acclaimed local chef and restaurateur Tom Douglas, where we would sample two varieties of artisanal pizzas. Although it was mid-afternoon, the place was packed with not a table available. So, the twelve of us formed a line against the wall while our tour guide Ezra went inside to grab hot slices of freshly-baked margherita pizza (buffalo mozzarella and San Marzano tomatoes) from the coal-fired oven.

Ezra soon came out with the pizza, and not a moment too soon. The elements were not the only thing we had to endure. But add the pitying glances from passers-by as they see us patiently waiting outside Serious Pie, with some even shaking their heads, perhaps thinking how crazy we were.

 As Ezra went down the line handing a slice to each person, a passer-by tried to partake of some of the goodies. Informed that the pizza was only for the paying customers of the Gourmet Seattle tour, the woman said she mistakenly thought free tastings were offered to entice patrons to come inside the restaurant. As if Serious Pie needed or had space for any more. We all got a laugh out of this incident, and momentarily forgot our rapidly freezing extremities.

A bite into the pizza moments later, and everything was okay in the world once more. A second variety was brought out, topped with yellow foot chanterelle mushrooms and truffle cheese, that further buoyed our spirits and satisfied our stomachs. So, we shuffled off to the next stop on the gourmet food tour, hoping to get indoors this time.

Click here for more posts from Seattle.

Space Needle, Seattle - Christmas in the Emerald City

The Space Needle was about a ten minute walk from the hotel, and despite my general skepticism about taking the high-speed elevator to yet another skyscraper for sweeping views of yet another city, we decided to do it anyway. Partly because it was Christmas Day, with not much else going on. Oh, and the coupon that knocked $2 off the fairly larcenous $18 admission fee definitely helped.

Space Needle

On a clear day like this (which is rare in these parts, or so I heard), the views are amazing. We went outside to the open area for some photos and to marvel at Puget Sound, Lake Union, and the downtown skyline, and to enjoy the cool weather. A concession stand was selling local beers and wines, so a Scuttlebutt Amber ale made lingering more enjoyable.

downtown skyline

Despite my initial skepticism, I had to admit going up the Space Needle was a great idea, and even the rapid 40-second elevator ride in the glass elevator didn't faze me. The trip to the Emerald City is off to a good start, hopefully the same will be true for the next couple of days.

Lake Union

Bonus pic below of the Space Needle as seen from our hotel room window. Lucked out on this one - we could have been looking out into the highway. Notice the Christmas Tree on top - pretty neat.

Click here for more posts from Seattle.

Can't afford Europe? Quebec City is a hop, skip and jump away

If you're bemoaning the weakness of the US dollar vis-a-vis the Euro, unwilling to endure the enhanced TSA "pat down" molestation, or your inner Francophile is itching to parler Francais, then consider a quick getaway to the walled, UNESCO World Heritage site of Quebec City.

 The cradle of French civilization in the New World (i.e. North America), Quebec City's center is compact, easily walkable, quite photogenic, and full of nice little shops and restaurants. And yes, the language. Most Quebecois' first language is French (though most speak decent English as well), so first-time visitors could be forgiven if they think they've actually crossed the Atlantic.

Let it snow, let it snow...

My first trip to Quebec City was five years ago on a day-trip from Montreal. Who can forget the towering Chateau de Frontenac, walking along the Terrasse Dufferin promenade, and browsing the shops at Quartier Petit Champlain? Alas, an afternoon was too short to fully appreciate the charms of Quebec City, so I vowed to make it back someday.

That someday turned out to be the 4-day long Thanksgiving weekend here in the US. As you can see from the snow, perhaps it wasn't quite the most ideal time to visit, but with familiar sights like the majestic Chateau Frontenac perched on top of the cliff overlooking the St. Lawrence river, and the huge colorful mural depicting Quebec City's history, it felt like visiting an old friend's home.

Chateau de Frontenac

Exploring the Quartier Petit Champlain area in the Lower Town is always a pleasure, especially with all the holiday lights on display. Some new experiences for this repeat visitor include taking the ten-minute ride by ferry to Levis, situated on the other side of the St. Lawrence River, for a few drinks at the Corsaire microbrewery, and venturing outside the walls of Vieux Quebec to explore the food shops and restaurants in the St. Jean Baptiste neighborhood. One particularly great find was Le Billig, a creperie-bistro serving Breton cuisine where I had a sumptuous lunch.

Mural depicting Quebec City's history

If you're worried about the language barrier, suffice it to say that all the Quebecois locals and service industry staff whom I encountered spoke English well, suffered through my valiant attempts (somewhat successfully, I hope) to render basic greetings and phrases in their native tongue, and displayed none of the snobbery towards non-French speakers that I had been advised about.

festive Quartier Petit Champlain

Overall, I was quite pleased with my quick getaway to Quebec City, despite the frigid temps and occasional snow, and extremely delighted at my choice of accommodations, the Hosteling International Quebec City hostel (aka Auberge Internationale Quebec City). Not only was the hostel's location central, but it was kept quite clean (a must!) at all times, and offered activities that provided travelers opportunities to mingle. Surely a traipse across the pond could not have proved equally memorable.

Batad Rice Terraces, so we meet again

Two weeks ago, while waiting for the Arthur Frommer talk to commence at the Adventure Travel Expo, I mindlessly flipped through the free official magazine while chatting with J. The magazine's contents weren't all that interesting, essentially a bunch of listings and ads that might come in handy in the future. Assuming the magazine doesn't meet its end first inside a recycling bin.

The Adventures in Travel Expo (that's what the event is officially called, though I always say "Adventure Travel Expo", as I suspect most people do) was held at the Meadowlands Convention Center, an easy drive for both us. In previous years it had been held in New York City's Javits Center, but due to the number of exhibitors dwindling, or perhaps a lack of interest in adventure travel among consumers, this year's scaled-down event moved across the Hudson River to New Jersey. Hooray.

As Mr. Frommer came into the room, I put aside the magazine on the vacant chair beside me. As it lay there, my eyes fell on the cover, and I straightened up, as if struck by a bolt of lightning. Excitedly, I turned to J.

Batad Rice Terraces, Banaue, Philippines

"Doesn't this cover pic look familiar to you?!", I demanded.

"I can't remember". J. furrowed her brow trying frantically to do so.

"Remember? I took a similar photo of these rice terraces on my trip to the Philippines,  which was included in the Facebook photo album I created", I reminded her. "You even made a comment on it".

"Oh yes! Now I remember", J. exclaimed, continuing, "What's it called again?!"

The picture in question was of the Batad Rice Terraces, the amphitheater-style terraces that is considered one of the world's most beautiful. Below is the shot I took after we trekked up for over an hour  to view the spectacular terraces. Somehow I never got around to blogging about this experience from a few months ago, but seeing the rice terraces on the magazine cover rekindled fond memories. 

Village of Batad

In contrast to its more famous cousin, the Banaue Rice Terraces, getting to the Batad Rice Terraces is no picnic. You can drive up to the viewpoint overlooking the former, spend fifteen minutes admiring them, and then leave. The stuff of fly-by tourism.  In contrast, to get to Batad, our group hired a private van to navigate the bumpy ride on the narrow dirt road leading up to the peak.

After taking a few minutes to compose ourselves after that jarring ride, we were ready for the next step. The 40-min hike (according to Lonely Planet) along the winding cliff side path to the viewing point, and further onwards to the Batad water falls. With our female local guide in tow (who disconcertingly wore simple flip-flops), we set off.

Now, neither myself nor the other members of my party are what you'd call avid hikers, nor could we be described as being "in shape". Thus, we took every opportunity for a short break, stopping along the way at the small rest stations for any pretext - like a bathroom break at the "comfort rooms". From time to time, we'd meet locals coming from Batad on their way to town, but otherwise we shared the trail only with the various insects and snakes that made their home there.

Finally!

Finally, after an hour and a half (twice the estimated hiking time by LP!), this welcome sign came into view and brought smiles to our tired faces, and soothed our growling stomachs.  Despite the aching joints, we quickened our steps, excited at the impending view of the Batad Rice Terraces. 

And what a spectacular view it was! Even breath-taking, if you're prone to superlatives. Unfortunately, we were too pooped to make the additional 45 minute hike to the Batad water falls. Besides, it was just about lunch time, so what better reward than to kick back, relax, enjoy a meal, grab a beer, and savor the view of the Batad Rice Terraces - anything to delay the inevitable - the tough uphill hike back. 

Where Smelly People, Commies, and Godfathers are free to roam

Just because I'm not traveling at the moment doesn't mean I don't spend every waking moment thinking, dreaming, and reading about travel ;-)

And where am I thinking of exploring in 2011? After a Europe-free 2010, the time is right to visit the Continent once more. At this point, the itinerary, timing and duration of the trip are still TBD, but it's more likely to include bleak Bucharest rather than posh Paris.

Anyway, a friend sent me a link to this rather amusing website called Mapping Stereotypes, where you can 'unleash your bigotry and become an idiot!'. (Anyone need more encouragement?).

According to Yanko, this is Europe according to the USA.



Surely this hysterical map will give the French yet more reason to whine. But heck - will all that blue cheese, they have it coming to them ;-) Well, at least one stereotype is apt - you certainly do need a lot of "CASH" to travel in Switzerland. And oh yeah, in case you failed European geography in high school, Bucharest is located within the borders of "Dracula".

Another personal favorite is the map below of Italy according to Posh Italians. Although my trip planning is focused on more mundane stuff, you know, like where the best gelato and cannoli places are, I'm also not eager to come face-to-face with Sonny Corleone's next of kin.

Check out the full list of stereotype maps by clicking on the image below.


Feel free to email me at hellonewman (at) gmail (dot) com.

A Free Luncheon on the River Seine after all

Most visitors to Washington DC make a beeline for the city's famous museums and memorials, which are quite excellent, interesting, and above all, FREE. Unlike most cities where museum visits can cost nearly $20, this is quite an amazing bargain for budget travelers who can easily spend days without shelling out a single penny.

Unfortunately for me, who was in DC on a quick Labor Day getaway, the one art I was intent on seeing was housed in the Phillips Collection, a private museum nestled in tony Dupont Circle just by Embassy Row. Being private, the museum was an exception to the rule and does charge admission to view the collection.


Not that it mattered to me. My main objective was to see Renoir's masterpiece, "Luncheon of the Boating Party", in its full glory. A full decade after developing an interest in French impressionist painters, and having viewed master pieces by Monet, Manet, Degas, among others, in the USA and Europe, this one painting was the only one left unchecked on my "must-see" list.

Upon arrival at the Phillips Collection, it turned out that due to a small fire a few days prior, the museum was only partially open. A bit alarmed, I asked hopefully, "Can I still see the Renoir?". Fortunately, the Luncheon of the Boating Party was housed in the building that wasn't affected by the fire, and yes, I could see it. Oh, and by the way, due to the incident admission was being waved. Hooray!


Although pleased at this good news, I was also concerned enough to inquire about the impact on the museum's collection. The staff quickly assured me that none of their works had been damaged, but some offices were. Whew!

It was a slow Saturday at the museum, so I had the painting to myself for a few minutes. The Luncheon of the Boating Party depicts thirteen of Renoir's Parisian circle, all of whom appear exceedingly young, attractive, and carefree, having lunch at a restaurant on the banks of the river Seine. They had just spent a day boating on the river on a nice summer day, as evidenced by some of the men still wearing their boating attire.

The vibrant colors, from the orange striped awning, the yellow straw hats, the rich blue tones of the dresses, the black top hats, and the almost-empty wine glasses make this a visibly arresting snapshot of Parisian leisure. At the same time, the eyes are drawn to the five women in the painting, who are vastly outnumbered and yet around whom the action revolves - from playing with a dog, staring seductively and engaging in conversation with attentive males.

Click on the thumbnails above to see the large versions, especially the top left one if you wish to see how Renoir has managed to insert his portrait into his master piece. So, in reality there are fourteen people in the painting, and not thirteen, if the artist is included.


Even cooler, instead of renting one of those museum guides to listen to commentary, the Phillips Collection lets you do the same with your cell phone. Just call the number listed and follow the instructions, and you will be transported to 19th century Parisian high society. Even from the comfort of your tiny cubicle, as I can personally attest to.

P.S. For more about Luncheon of the Boating Party, download this PDF. And if these Impressionist brush strokes seem oddly familiar, chances are you came across the painting in the French film "Amelie", where it played a prominent role.

Feel free to contact me at hellonewman (at) gmail (dot) com

Strokkur erupts with a Geysir

Update July 2010: An excerpt from this blog post appeared in the "Iceland Highlights" color photo section of the Lonely Planet Iceland guide (7th edition). Hooray for me.




Moving on with Go Travel Iceland's Golden Circle tour led by Gummi, we eventually reached one of Iceland's most famous tourist attractions and the day trip's highlight - the geothermal fields in the Haukadalur valley to watch ol' faithful Geysir strut its stuff - shoot water and steam high up into the air in front of an appreciative crowd.

However, as it turns out, the much-typed star attraction Geysir (the mother of all geysers), once capable of erupting over 200 feet, is currently past its prime and now lies largely dormant. Reports say it had become clogged with rocks in attempts to induce eruptions.

Eyeing a couple of eager tourists traipsing about carelessly, Gummi cautioned us from ignoring the posted signs and ankle-high ropes cordoning off these hot springs - the prospect of a boiling hot shower isn't particularly appealing in case Geysir comes roaring to life to reclaim its former glory.

Happily, seizing the starring role in its place, the underrated-yet-oddly reliable Strokkur lay nearby to ensure visitors would not be disappointed. (In a way, the atmosphere was a bit like Disneyland).

That day there was quite a turnout - despite the freezing cold, tourists from big and small buses alike plying the Golden Circle route were on hand, cameras, video recorders, and IPhones held aloft, fingers poised to capture the perfect Kodak moment. Yes, staring at a huge hole in the ground CAN be an exciting experience.

I stood at the edge of the roped-off area counting down the five-minute interval between Strokkur's eruptions. (That IS quite prolific - imagine all the pressure, below and above the ground, to perform). To better operate my camera, I removed my gloves despite the bitter cold (ouch!) and kept my grip steady while intently observing the water slosh about Strokkur's hole, watching it swell just a tiny bit more each time, gathering momentum and inching closer to the inevitable gigantic climax.

And then - boom! It startled me - just like that, a huge pent-up release of water shot out of the ground, carried by the wind towards where I stood, dangerously close to drenching me with 100 degree celcius bath water. Somehow in the split-second that all this occurred I managed to press the shutter button that captured the gusher (pic above). In the end, regardless if Geysir or Strokkur played the lead role, I went back to the bus happy with the performance.

In case the embedded video below doesn't appear, check it out via this Youtube link. You can also check out more Iceland trip posts here.

A Capsule fit for a Gaijin

Update Aug 2010: An expanded report on my capsule hotel experience was published on the Asia Society website, and is currently the Most Popular article there. Hooray. The slide show is also accessible via the "View more pictures..." link within the article.

Taking the early morning Narita Express from Shinjuku to the airport wasn't a problem. The problem was finding affordable accommodations near the train station in Shinjuku, one of Tokyo's busiest and most expensive areas. The budget traveller inside me, desperate for any means to control costs, began to consider one previously unthinkable option: capsule hotels.

Capsule hotels are basically hotels where you stay in tiny, coffin-like capsules, aka a "room". The capsules are stacked on top of each other, much like the dryers in your local laundromat, and look eerily similar to those, or if you spend more time in the kitchen, an oven. Height and width-wise, they're roughly the same size as those appliances, except for the length (slightly more than 6 feet). I know, probably not everyone's cup of tea, but at 3,500 yen ($40) a night, the price was just right.


Besides, in this age of convenient air travel that allows tourists to zip to faraway corners of the globe and seemingly overwhelm every destination, staying at a capsule hotel seemed like a quintessentially Japanese experience. In fact, capsule hotels are targeted towards Japanese businessmen, who are known to have a drink or two after work with their boss (shudder) and belt out their best Sinatra tunes for hours. After the festivities, once they realize that the last train back to the 'burbs had left the building, oh, about two hours ago, guess where the cheapest option is to rest your aching head for the night?

Capsule Hotel photo slide show

My web search led to the the Green Plaza Shinjuku capsule hotel, located just a few minutes walk from Shinjuku station. (Make sure you take the East exit, or you'll never find it). The Green Plaza is on the edge of one of Tokyo's red-light districts, Kabuki-cho, home to entertainment clubs, massage parlors, and bars. It's far from being seedy though, with mainstream restaurants and shops co-existing happily with the prurient offerings, and with hordes of tourists walking around seemingly at all hours intently ignoring the touts enticing you to step inside their establishment.


Finally, I found the capsule hotel and checked-in. They assigned me to a capsule (taking care to ask if I preferred a "top" or a "bottom"), a locker to put my things in, and handed me a pair of pajamas for padding around the hotel which was spread over six floors (!). The capsules themselves occupied only three floors, each of which had their own spotless (what else did you expect?) toilet facilities, but the communal shower and bath are on the 6th floor bathing naked in front of fifty mainly middle-aged Japanese men is an experience in itself), and there was also a spa on the 5th floor offering body and foot massages.

"Isn't it somewhat claustrophobic?", was the number one FAQ among my friends, once I mentioned my capsule hotel experience. Not really, the capsule was more spacious than expected - you can actually roll over on both sides while lying down on the bed, and it even allows for sitting upright to read. Each capsule is also equipped with a tiny TV (8 pay-per-view channels) and an alarm clock/radio. The instructions were only in Japanese though, so I never figured out how to operate the gadgets.



Luckily, it was a Sunday night when I stayed at the Green Plaza capsule hotel, so most of the capsules were unoccupied. I imagine the case would be much different on a week night, with all those inebriated clients making so much more noise. I slept peacefully (after pulling down the wooden curtain that serves as the "door", and managed to catch my train to Narita airport the following morning without incident.

Looking back on my trip, the memories from the capsule hotel always makes me smile, and it's one of many unique experiences in Japan that I will never forget. As they say, a picture is worth a thousand words - so check out the slide show below to see more from the capsule hotel.


Capsule Hotel photo slide show

For more of my Japan trip blog posts, click here.

Feel free to contact me at hellonewman (at) gmail (dot) com

Nozomi Shinkansen "flight" from Kyoto to Tokyo

There's my bullet train ride shown on the board - Nozomi 222 bound for Tokyo at 10:02 am. Being a fan of rail travel (as opposed to air and bus travel), I was psyched to experience one of the world's fastest bullet trains, the Shinkansen, and was waiting on the platform a Kyoto station for the 2.5 hour "rapid express" ride.

I hadn't really known about the distinctions between the different classes. But when buying my ticket, the counter lady gave a brief explanation, and I figured that logically the less stops, the better.

Thus I chose the Nozomi, which as you can see, makes fewer stops along the Kyoto to Tokyo route than its Hikari "express" counterpart. The time savings probably aren't all that great, perhaps half an hour, since the Shinkansen does speed through the countryside at a top rate of 300 kilometers per hour.

Regardless of the class - rapid express or express (I love how the local trains are called "semi-express"), in truth, I was just happy to be in a country with a great rail travel system like Japan,
given the paucity of good rail travel options in the USA.

In fact, one of my fondest memories of my trips in Switzerland was taking the intercity trains between the different cities, always amazed by their punctuality and efficiency. (Which probably explains why I wear a Swiss Railways watch to this day).

Other than the Amtrak Acela Express service on the Northeast corridor between Boston and Washington DC, travelling by train seems to have gone out of style at home, with no foreseeable revival given the massive costs of upgrading the infrastructure.

Even the much-touted Acela Express reaches top speeds of only 150 mph (210 km/hr), and only on certain sections of the route. Something to do with the tracks, I believe.

So, there I was eagerly waiting for "my" Nozomi train to arrive, and to while away the time, I watched other Shinkansen trains zoom past the Kyoto station platform.

You could easily tell they were coming - the train would appear in the distance - still seemingly far - but this can be quite deceiving. You only have a few precious seconds to set the perfect angle on your camera's view finder, and remember to brace yourself for the strong gust of cool air that the Shinkansen brings with it to avoid being knocked over.

In a few seconds, the show is all over and you're left to replay the video you've shot, shake your head in disappointment, and then stake out your position on the platform's edge waiting for the next one. Repeat as many times as necessary.

Here is the link to video of the Shinkansen speeding through Kyoto station (if the embedded video below doesn't appear).




Finally, the Nozomi train came and I took my designated seat inside the designated car. The Shinkansen was very comfortable and had ample legroom.

For people like me who are normally stuck in the middle seat in economy class, this was quite a relief. The smoothness of the ride struck me. In fact, you'd only notice you are traveling at such high speeds when you look out the window at the countryside and everything whizzes by in an instant.

Overall, the Shinkansen is a great way to experience the outstanding Japan rail system (those Swiss better watch out), although it comes at a steep price. My one-way trip between Kyoto and Tokyo came to around 13,520 yen or roughly US$150. (No one said traveling in style would be cheap, I rationalized). A JR pass can be used on the Hikari trains, but not the "rapid express" Nozomi.

Check out this Lonely Planet article to learn more about Japan's amazing bullet trains.

For more of my Japan trip blog posts, click here.

I saw Serena William's twin at the Hakone Open Air Museum in Japan

"Holy cow, that looks just like Serena Williams", was my initial reaction when I spotted this colorful, eye-catching sculpture standing by its lonesome at the Hakone Open Air Museum, squinting into the distance. Don't laugh, instead look at the bulging muscles on that thick yet curvaceous frame, the gaudily post-modern attire, accessorized with a bright polka-dotted bag, and tell me you don't see the resemblance between this sculpture's and the best female tennis player's physiques.


For non-followers of women's professional tennis, Serena Williams is the current no. 1 player in the world, a 13-time Grand Slam tournament winner (most recently Wimbledon 2010), and a fashionista all rolled into one. She has dominated the tour for the better part of this decade, and her opponents whom she spanks regularly on the tennis court will agree that she is a tough competitor, both physically and mentally.



Obviously, this giant-sized life-like outdoor sculpture, one of about 120 such sculptures scattered all over the grounds of the Hakone Open Air Museum in Hakone, Japan (the country's first ever open air art museum), wasn't really modeled after Venus William's more accomplished little sister, but nonetheless it emerged as one of my favorites during an afternoon exploring at the open air museum, and thus the nickname stuck in my mind. (Besides, the similarity really IS striking).

Below are more images of my favorite sculptures from the Hakone Open Air Museum (click to enlarge). In the event you need a break from strolling the grounds, there's a relaxing foot bath with water coming from the area's abundant hot springs, five indoor exhibition spaces (most notably the Picasso Pavilion), and the requisite cafes and restaurants (and gift shop, of course!)






Much like on the tennis court, "Serena Williams" at the Hakone Open Air Museum emerged as the most memorable, colorful and stylish among all the protagonists, regardless if you love it or hate it.

For more Japan posts, click here.

Wherefore Art Thou, Mt. Fuji?

Most tourists visit the Hakone area west of Tokyo in the hopes of catching a glimpse of the symmetrical cone of Japan's highest peak, Mt. Fuji. Unfortunately, there is one big problem - Mt. Fuji is an exceptionally shy volcano who prefers to stay hidden behind the clouds, much like introverted people who have to be cajoled into attending parties. Thus, Mt. Fuji sightings can be a hit-and-miss affair. (If this were Disneyland, the skies would clear and the volcano would belch on the hour).

In fact, Hakone Area Map that came with my Hakone Free Pass (which entitles the bearer to round-trip train transport between Shinjuku Station in Tokyo and Hakone-Yumoto Station, as well as boarding privileges on an assortment of transport - cable cars, gondolas, buses, sightseeing ships - in Hakone) enumerates two Mt. Fuji viewpoints: the first one is from high up on the Hakone Ropeway, and the second from the Hakone Sightseeing Cruise on Lake Ashi (as pictured below).






I had the fortune of taking the two above-mentioned modes of transport in Hakone (arigato gozaimasu, Hakone Free Pass!), and not for a single moment did Mt. Fuji even peek from behind the curtain. The visit to Hakone wasn't a total loss though, since I had absolutely zero expectations (and hope) of a sighting in the first place, and there were lots of other cool stuff to do in Hakone.

Most memorable was taking the Hakone Tozan Cablecar, a short ten minute ride up the mountains, then switching to the Hakone Ropeway for the ride overlooking the Owakudani valley, formed by volcanic explosions a very long time ago. A stop at Owakudani was made to taste the special "black eggs" (hard boiled eggs dipped in steaming hot springs). The taste wasn't so special though, since they tasted just like normal hard boiled eggs.



We were careful not to get too close to the pools of hot springs spewing dangerous volcanic gases from below the surface, plus the putrid rotten-egg smell of sulfur became a bit overwhelming. Lots of student tour groups were around to enjoy this unique attraction though.

Another ride on the Hakone Ropeway brought us to Togendai-ko, the departure point for the pirate-ship sightseeing cruise on Lake Ashi that brings us to the town on the other side, Hakonemachi.



The cruise itself was quite uneventful; one can simply appreciate the scenery as the ship slowly makes its way across the lake, or go nuts frantically looking around and squinting at the sun for a hint of the majestic volcano showing its face. I opted for the former, and also diverted myself by observing other ship passengers posing for pictures with a costumed pirate making the rounds of the deck.

The morning's sightseeing on various modes of transport came to an close, with the last leg the Hakone Tozan bus back to Gora station, where postcards of bashful Mt. Fuji are available for purchase. Sometimes these picture-perfect images are a good (and only) substitute to seeing the real thing.

P.S. I also wrote an article about the Hakone Open Air Museum.


For more Japan posts, click here.